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| Towards West from Dharahara 1920 AD | Source: Images of a Century |
This piece of writing was inspired by the old photos of Kathmandu, exhibited by Nepal Heritage Society in the year 2049BS. This article is on how landscape of Kathmandu has changed after modernization begin. For example: electricity poles running from the middle of Tundikhel, rail carriage with police booth at 2049 placed in balaju, old Pyukha road from where various procession used to take place before construction of new road and Bhotahity road.
Kathmandu can be compared to the East Berlin and the city visited by mythical Prince Dikpal, which is full of grand palatial buildings and courtyards with beautiful gardens, but without any city dwellers - (story of Bodhbikram Adhikari). Kathmandu was seemingly beautiful yet had haunted feel in old photographs
Saurabh wrote this article not to analyse those pictures but to raise question why Kathmandu transformed from beautiful city to chaotic and hideous city.
Proclamation of downfall
At old times, borderline of Kathmandu used to be construed as across the south and east of Bagmati (Bagmatipari), across the Hanumante (Hanumante pari) and across the Manhari (Manhari pari). The boundaries of Kathmandu were depicted by the position of the place according to river. Such as, still the older generations refer Patan as Bagmati pari.
Earlier Bagmati River was so clean that cowherds (gwalas) from Bhaimal, Nepaltar and Koteshwor used to mix water from Bagmati in their milk cans. The farmers from the urban parts of valley used to wash their leafy vegetables with the water from Tukucha and Dhobikhola to sell them at dabali or falcha.
Some thirty five years ago, during the month of Asadh and Shrawan, Tukucha river used to spread and cover the ground of Balmiki campus. As dhobikhola reached Anamnagar, water level rises in such a way that it can be the average height of two people (around 10-11 feet deep). Tukuche and Dhobikhola used to sweep cattles, sheep and even jackals/fox(syal) during the rainy season. Even Padma Jung of Rana clan has written about heroic deed of Janga Bahadur Rana of finding person alive from Manahara river, which shows the nature and intensity of water flow in the river at that period. Balkhu river was more wild.
Everywhere Rajkulo (canals) used to flow. Stone aquifers (Dhungedhara) were abundant as well. In an old issue of Madhuparka, Ram Sharan Darnal had written an article about “Pote Deuta/God” or about idols of Bhagirath which used to be installed in all the aquifers. In the article, the number of idols of Bhagirath were written as hundreds in number.
At that time, horse stables and cow sheds were common sights, so was the sight of deep wells, may be to help rear the animals. The large open grazing grounds were also present at time to graze these animals. Since, cement was not introduced at that time; extraction of sands for construction purposes from river was not present at all. Due to which, the wells were always filled with 3/4th of water. There used to regular water supply in canals and water level in rivers used to be considerably higher. Ghats used to be in well maintained state unlike their current dilapidated state.
As in terai, where pond and trenches filled with water contains water hyacinth, in Kathmandu, azolla used to be common site, where there are water storage pits or small ponds. To prevent the sideways of agricultural field from weathering and decaying, Bais trees were planted in sideways. Natural fences were grown on the periphery of the field such as nil kanda, asuro, kanike fool and narkat.
Today’s crowded places such as Dasrath stadium and Lainchaur used to be full of trees and bushes. The bamboo bushes on the way from Kalikasthan to Singha Durbar used to be such a dangerous place that people would not walk after 4 pm. Down from there, the Bishal Dhap was called Jhulpakha, putalisadak, which used to be open area was called Hakutafal and Newroad used to be called as “Thulobari”. The name “Fasikyaba” still carries the characteristics of that area in the past, i.e garden of pumpkins.
Sinamangal used to be wetland where white swans and crane used to stay around because of availability of water. Ladies (whose maita is at dillibazar) had to be sleep overnight being a guest while travelling from sanepa to dillibazar, as way was covered with bamboo and other bushes. From Singhadurbar to Dillibazar corner, open spaces were found in between the roads.
Flowers such as Motiya, Hasina, ThalKamal, Chameli and Juhi were popular among elite or rich people where as Parijat, Rose were popular among middle class and among farmers or working class, roses, and poppy flowers were most popular ones. However, all kinds of flowers besides these were in vogue as well. As at that time, locals have compulsion to plant various kinds of flowers in their gardens or fields because of the need to use specific flowers for specific occasions – festivals, carnivals, parties, puja, marriages and so on. Within the gardens, Silver oak (Kangiyo), Simal, kalki and kapoor were planted and at outside Bakena, Khari, uttis were popular. Nowadays, money plant, rubber plant and dollar plant have replaced them.
Fields cover larger part of Kathmandu landscape. Due to large fields, there were lots of mices and snakes in the fields. Mongooses were also a plenty because of presence of snakes. Since, no chemical fertilizer were used, frogs and toads make croaking sound all night. As soon as rainfalls, lots of earthworms came out of soil. Snails are also found in large amount. Even some fifteen to 12 years before, in Balaju area, those species were found.
Besides regular birds, migratory birds such as karyang kurung coming from Siberia, used to be sights of Kathmandu. More than 20-25 species of birds were seen in the valley. Similarly, in canals and rivers, different varieties (10-15 types) of fishes such as asla, hile, katle, singe were found in plenty. Dhobichara, battai, parrot and mynah used to be reared. Gothali and chibe used to navigate the up on the sky frequently.
Man made ponds at the likes of ranipokhari, kamalpokhari, napokhari, gahanapokhari were present such as khyacha: pokhari (now khicha pokhari), pako pokhaldyang. In lots of these ponds, red ornamental fishes were reared. Eg. At pond in bhugolpark and rajrajeshwori.
At the kali mandir, the goats with bells hanging around their neck were presented to god and the offsprings from them in hordes were found around these temples. Stray dogs were lot in number. However, they didn’t seem to outnumber humped ox and calves. Tigers were just being extinct from the places such as bagh darbar and bagh bazaar. Hattisar used to be refuge for lots of elephants. Till 2025 B.S, leopards, monkeys, fox and jackals, wild cats from jungles in the periphery of Kathmandu used to roam around Kathmandu occasionally.
Kathmandu was replica of zoo albeit natural one, which contains wide range of flora and faunas, wild creatures and birds, including a specimen called man in small number. The downfall of nature was announced with a rumble, after hattisar started felling off the trees to sell off the wood.
Invasion by barbaric/wild/savage.
In 1951 AD, Palatial heritage of Kathmandu had to face the invasion of those who did not know how to preserve the heritage. They stormed the historical palaces including Singha Durbar by locating all the government offices to these palatial heritages. The invasion directly affected Bahadur Bhawan, whose Rajputana style dome were demolished and modified despite of protests in mid 70s and the same time Putali Bagaicha “Butterfly garden” of Singha Durbar lost its original sheen.
Manandhars were one of the ancient caste groups of Kathmandu. Among 700 houses of Manandhar, by that time many were already lost. Among hundreds of bahals belonging to “Thervadi” buddists, many cease to exist. However, Narsingh Camp in Thamel which used to house and represent joint family of South Indian Nambudiripad Nayaar Brahmin family was fragmented. Narsingh camp was further fragmented in 1970s by newly rich faction of business community doing export import business in Hongkong and Bangkok. Two other big compounds affected were ‘Seto Darbar’ and ‘Keshar Mahal’. After great fire of 2030 BS, Singha Durbar also underwent fragmentation. After 1947AD, the huge portion of land belonging to the British India was handed over to Indian embassy and British embassy itself was placed at one part.
Next to Maru was Dallu, after Dallu came Bishnumati and Swoyambhu. After 2007 BS, civil servants recently back from foreign trips and those following nuclear family migrated from city centre to these places.
After great earthquake of 1990 BS, there was attempt to maintain uniformity in building structure as done in Connaught place of Delhi in places such as Tripureshwor, Putalisadak, Indrachowk and Newroad. The attempt was gone unnoticed and uniformity of structure in location was least in the mind.
However, after Tibet was annexed into China in 1959 AD, Swoyambhu and Baudhha underwent major changes owing to increased population pressure. This made relocating in between Swoyambhu and Newroad relatively uneasy. At that time, two important incidents occurred. The house of Satish Kumar Singh known as “Gudne Ghar” constructed across Bagmati river in Patan became landmark for many. “Khutte ghar” of Kamaladi was next to it in term of design and building structure. It has been told that both these landmark buildings were brain child of Mr. Shankar Nath Rimal, a pioneer who introduced pillar system in Nepal.
During the same period, once Bhesh Bahadur Thapa built his abode in Baneshwor height, all the celebrities and high profile people from Nepal followed him there. Meanwhile at Himalayan Height, Tahachal, 2 dozens condomium fitted for expat were constructed, aftermath Soaltee added along, which added value to the place. Though the bungalow by Uttardhoj, currently housing Ganesh Man Singh’s family at Chhetrapati was contemporary to Singhadurbar, it never fascinated new architects.
The old Victorian style buildings from Kamaladi corner to Naxal belonging to Thapa clan, which were built since Chandra Shumsher’s period under went massive change. This area was given by Chandra Shumsher to his maternal uncle’s family, Dilli bazaar named after late Dilli Jung Thapa, his bungalow compound is not recognizable. Gyaneshwor, which was initially set up by Gyaneshwor and Bhuwaneshwor Pant also underwent change. Baghbazaar infamous for its wilderment, and which could not be crossed alone after Toya Raj and Laxmi Ranjan Joshi constructed the oil store at the place. Teku had nothing going on before the National Trading Limited building was erected. Kalimati was known only for its soil and old pipal tree. House of Laxminarayan at Dillibazaar was renowned by being first house constructed for renting/commercial purpose, where at that time was Koshi Project and Elizabeth Huley were located. Till 2007 BS, normally ground and first floor used to be rented to sepoy/army-men. These army-men need not pay rent, they used to help the household in daily household chores instead of paying rent.
In 1961 AD, another big event catapulted the scenario of Tundikhel – army parade ground, when queen Elizabeth 2nd was due to make her state visit. In the leadership of Bishnu Mani Acharya, Tundikhel was barricaded around. The temples at Mahankalsthan and Sorhahaate (16 handed) Ganesh was shifted to widen the roads.
After and before that, lots of other transformation happened. Round House (Gol Ghar) and Kot fell apart even before 2015 BS. Cinema halls – Shree and Prabha were shut down. The gol pati (Round shed) and shops at the southern side of Ranipokhari were demolished. The “sel pasal” sweet shop owned by famed photographer family of Chitrakars and photo shop owned by Khadgi of Baghbazaar were removed after demolishment. Bishwojyoti which used to own by Devendra Shumsher did not hamper the beauty of Ranipokhari. But, after 2007 BS, to house the Bengali teachers from Durbar School, Bengali engineers stationed at Pharping and Bengali doctors of Bir Hospital, at the Southern part of Bir Hospital, Bengali quarters were erected. Professor quarters was constructed behind Bishwojyoti.
Due to ages old belief based on fable of Simhasartha Bahu, the houses of Thamel did not have kausi (open roof top). However, now we can see that almost all the houses are with kausi or rooftop. Generator house was added to Chandrajyoti power station (BIJULI GHAR).
The houses of Abhiman Singh Basnet including Paltan ghar at Ason, house of Gagan Singh situated at DhokaTole lost its sheen and importance. Construction of Padma Kanya Campus during late 2020 s BS created lots of buzz during that period. At that time, government did not like the idea of having three gajurs as insisted by Angur Baba Joshi, so while constructing building which used to house National Trading Limited’s seasonal shop, they placed 5 gajurs in NTL’s building constructed at the Western side of Bhrikuti Mandap.
Chandra Dispensary and Laxmi Blood Bank situated at Bir Hospital premises collapsed leading to their removal. Nirulas replaced first petrol pumps of Joshis in New road, where as at Bhotahity, Sajha Bhandar was built.
New aged tourism, incepted during 2011 BS, got new edge during Hippy era of 60s. Affluent Jhho:Chhen “Freak Street” was an impact of that hippy culture. The Hotel Eden owned by Devi Datta Sharma and others at Freak Street could not keep their charm intact by the 70s, where as Thamel developed as an alternative to Freak street especially areas around famed Kathmandu Guest House. By mid 80s, Thamel transformed dramatically leaving nothing much happening at Freak Street. This led to expansion of settlements to Samakhushi. Balaju used to be entry point to Kathmandu for Westerners of Lamjung, Tanahu etc. Sorhakhutte used to be resting point for them. The people from these settled near Lainchaur and periphery where as Easterners chose Baneshwor for settlement.
While organizing felicitation programs for the West German President Henrick Lubke at open theatre, arranging welcome program to Summiteers’ teams led by James Hunt and proposing philosophical discussion of Rahul Sanskritayan by Pandit Muralidhar Bhattarai at Saraswoti Sadan, everyone felt need of town hall. Nachghar, where once Fayaaz Khan performed his musical show seemed small. That led to construction of 704 seater City Hall which is double the capacity of 354 seater Naachghar. Afterward, 1408 seater Royal Nepal Academy Hall came into existence. However, it lost its reputation few years after because of Hindi movie named ‘Julie’ shown for charity.
Even before the Tolstoy’s story “How much land does a man need?” was written in which protagonist was promised as much land that he could encircle starting by dawn, only if he reaches his starting point before dusk, the similar situation had been staged in Kathmandu by king Pratap Malla. Pratap Malla offered similar pact to his Muslim Tantric. The tantric got the land from the bank of Ranipokhari till Bagbazar – Kamaladi where Takia Guthi had been established by wheeling nanglo (round bamboo sieve) around the land. As time passed, the takia guthi have become insufficient. Colleges were constructed at Hakutafal area,bhrikuti mandap was also erected. Office buildings were constructed at panchayat plaza.
In this manner, pote god, dikpal of temples and stone basaha (ox) sprayed with salt to protect land which used to be part of Kathmandu were lost. Kalimati famous for black soil become inhabited by people and people stopped extracting black soil. Gongabu - rooster of hell transformed to town which used to be soil extraction site. Hadigaun, Maligaun, kuriyagaun, Bhimsengola also altered from villages to cities. Cemetery near Judhodaya Public School and Maitidevi were demolished and replaced by residential buildings. Cemetery at Kumarigal and at gate of Shankardev Campus was also pull downed.
During the 80s, new name added to the list of places such as Sungava basti, Anamnagar, Bijulibazar. Koteshwor was like Hetauda, Hattigauda was like Mugling and Balkhu developed like Itahari.
Making way to Professor quarter at compound of Seto Darbar was a kind of uncivilized intrusion to beautiful Kathmandu. These kind of intrusion happened all across Kathmandu, which was a fatal step.
Three dead words
Churaute (bangles sellers) used to go round the settlements with bangles, where as Thakse used to go across households offering Jimbu (Dried Allium hypsistum and Allium przewalskianum). Similarly, people carrying red and white soil (rato mato and kamero mato), turmeric and oil used take round of houses in cities. These people who used to roam for selling only one product used to be called ‘Upariya’. Their places have been taken over by leafy vegetable (saag) sellers and collectors of old papers and other plastic, metal or glass garbages.
Faubanjar was a term used for middlemen or commission agents. They used to buy leafy vegetables in cheap price and sell them at higher price. Now, these middlemen or commission agents have taken over in all sectors of business.
‘Farmaish’ was term used to define wasting of money. Positive meaning for ‘Farmaish’ used to be ‘Thokh.
After 2007 B.S., Krishna Rajkarnikar who accompanied Tanka Prasad Acharya to his UK trip brought machine to make bread (pauroti) replacing the people’s feet which led to introduction of fastfood to Kathmanduites. Tilaudi Maila from Ganabahal was known for his speciality – Tilaudi and Lattepa. Ram Bhandar from Thapathali introduced Rasmadhuri to Kathmandu with success. Amrit Bhandar of Indrachowk was famous for Aludam. Now they are into catering business. Fried beans from Maitighar used to satisfy the palate of people till the area was revamped for SARRC Summit.
The shop of Laptan (lieutenant) at Dillibazar hosted literati like Devkota and his contemporary. The place was like Amritayan of Taliganj in Kolkata. The famous Chatamari shop from Dillibazar was later shifted to Maitidevi.
Similarly, Rashmi Restaurant of Fasikyaba used to be akhada (junction) for politicos and literati of Nepal, just like the coffee house of Delhi. R.C. Mo:mo of Fasikyaba was also famous at that time.
Putalisadak was converted to “Sekuwa” centre by Bengali dada. But, his place has been taken by Nara bahadur of Biratnagar.
These eateries in a way were responsible for changing the food eating habit among Kathmaduites. Their preference changed from vegetarian to non vegetarian items and opened up to eat outside home. However, eating outside was considered ‘Farmaish’. Still older generation held the same view about eating outside.
However, their place was taken over by Indira Restaurant, Coffee House at Newroad and Nanglo Restaurant at Durbarmarg, which were launched in 60s and 70s respectively. Nanglo is still in business. The much credit for their brisk business can be given to influence of Tibetan and European influence in Nepali menu.
Despite that, you could still find shops which held tradition of “Soti’s Shop” of Tanahu. Tomtom baje from Bhotahity, had designed and taken patent and distribution right of velvet cushion (makhmali chaati) and Barat cushion during Chandra Shumsher’s era.
Harek Pustak Bhandar (book shop) used to trade second hand books even before famous Kathmandu Trade Post was launched at Jhochhen.
The shop of Halkhori at Indrachowk became the first saree shop in the town. Wotu’s shop owned by Hanumandas catered much to the need of outsiders from hilly areas than to the need of city denizens.
Now, famous online business outlet Muncha, was then famous for its trade of second hand items. Nepal Food Center without its signboard was famous for grocery items.
Sandesh griha at Bangemudha catered Kathmandu with magazines and newspaper from all over the world. It helped changed the mind-set of people towards magazine and newspaper. Those who used to read” Benkateswor Bangbasi” switched to “Statesman”, where as those browsing “Kalyan” started reading “dharmayug”.
Allied Pharma at Newroad was like Kalpabrikshya “panacea”. The medicine that was not found at Allied Pharma, cannot be sought anywhere in Nepal. That was the stance of people about that pharma.
Ratnapustak Bhandar at Bhotahity was a famed shop for books.
At putalisadak, L. L. Ahuja opened first cold storage, at Kichhapokhari, readymade store of Jujubhai and Sajaad Hair cutting Saloon near Multijames created quite a ripple in Kathmandu.
Pottery outlets at Machhindra bahal and Ayurvedic medicine shops (Vaidya pasal) at Kilagal have survived till date. These were the shops which started when agriculture as profession started waning in Kathmandu and had impacted the lifestyles of people a lot.
The miracle was the tiger patterned taxi service (12 in numbers)started by son of Satya Shumsher from Tangal. These taxi provided services with a call of phone. They used to roam around city creating a buzz among people. The situation of taking ride for trip to Bhaktapur in truck had come to an end.
People did not have to rent a jeep. Following Kul Bahadur Nakarmi of Lazimpat, workshop were opened everywhere. However, people were still averse to expansion of road.
Meanwhile, jatra where Bhakku (masked man in deity form) was offered bull was stalled, which make way to football making it a popular sporting event. Mahabir 11 of Dillibazar, N.R.T. of Newroad, Sankata of Tebahal and R.C.T from Bhotahity used to pull crowd of more than ten thousand in each games before knock out, league and division games took over.
Lot of people have misconstrued ‘Royal Hotel’ of Boris Lisanovitch as the first hotel. The first hotel was Nepal Hotel of Narayan Shumsher situated at Jawalakhel. Nevertheless, it was Royal Hotel which paved way for new lodges, travel agencies and safari camps.
These were the things that had changed Kathmandu in secondary level.
The postering done by Tanka Prasad Acharya in 19th century has been taken up by others. Bhagyodaya Chittha (lotteries) started graffiti in walls of Kathmandu with its advertisement. In 2024 B.S. During same period to campaign up “Gaun Farka Abhiyan- Village Return Campaign” for National Development Service so as to spread so called nationalism, hoarding boards featuring national emblems and picture of 10 national heroes were installed in various places of cities.
The artistic fireworks presented during 7th of Falgun to mark Democracy day was stopped. The government authorities also stopped firing gunshots to mark 12 am and 12 pm citing them as an extravagant affair. Kites of different types including Nepali ones had ceased to appear on the dusty sky.
The ‘Gaushala’ - namely grazing land in Nepali functionally turned to ‘Dharmashala’. Hermit like Thaneshwor baba and 1008 swami influenced Pashupati a lot. During 2020s B.S., Kathmandu was shaken up by murder mystery at Baneshwor. This was an example of transformation of this city to moral less city.
Establishment of Balaju Industrial Estate was a silent nod to install various carpet, hosiery industries within city premises. Besides this decision, building code law enforcing locals to build houses not above 45 feet in height, centralization of power, weak land reform and governance act, massive landslide in 2011 and 2032 B.S. in hilly regions led to population boom and expansion of Kathmandu.
Fall from glory
In this manner, Kathmandu lost its vibrancy and glory. Three major mistakes that led Kathmandu to fall from its’ glorious past were
- In 1950s itself, had the authorities made mandatory for each of the new houses to be connected with motorable road and be installed with septic tank, city could have been much better planned.
- Within and across the periphery of ringroad completed in 1970s, no planning was done to construct good sewerage system
- With establishment of Dairy Development Corporation, the grazing land in Kathmandu could have make way to beautiful parks and recreational areas. Had that been planned, Kathmandu could have parks more parks.
Final note:
Two decades have passed since Sourabh wrote this article. Kathmandu has expanded far and wide but nothing concrete has been done to redirect efforts to make Kathmandu regain its glorious past. Riversides are encroached, concrete jungle has grown, number of vehicles, so has number of people leading to cacophony.
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| Original Article from the collection of Krishna Man Joshi |
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