Thamel - History & Pedestrianization

1. History 

 

Historic photo of Thamel Bhagwan Bahal from Himalayn Bank Calendar

Thamel is a tourist-oriented commercial neighbourhood located in Kathmandu. Unlike other historic tourist destination in Kathmandu, it is a relatively new area, therefore, lacking major historic, cultural or architectural identity.

Thamel or Thahabil used to be a small settlement clustered around Tha: Bahi, located outside the periphery of the old town boundary.

Thamel derives its name from this Tha: Bahi, a Buddhist monastery located here and popularly called Bikramsil Mahavihar. In Newari terms Tha: means uppermost, and as Tha: Bahi was the last monastery on the upper part of Kathmandu, the Bahi got its name as such. For much part of history the place was called Thabahil. As per account of local resident, Laba lal Pradhan around this time, the nearest postal service for people of Kathmandu was in lainchour inside the Indian embassy compound. As people had to go there for mailing it was referred to by outsiders as Thabahilmail. During 2013 BS (1956 AD) however trend of giving Nepali name to the locality started. And so the name Thamail was struck. This was later written as Thamel.

The Tha: Bhai: is said to have been established by Singha Sartha Bahu. The principal inhabitants of the Thamel are the Pradhans whose place of worship is the Tha: Bahi. These Pradhans had their roots connected to Phusingkhel (present-day Phutung) and are known to be among the few Buddhist Pradhans [most are Hindu].

Besides the Kwa Bahal, Narsingh Chowk and Golkupakha route [which was preferred route to Tokha] up until the 60s the settlements in other areas of Thamel was sparse [1- Shrestha, 2018].

2. Tourism boom in Thamel

The seed of tourism was planted when Karna Shakya opened Kathmandu Guest House in 1967. Shakya’s father had bought land in Thamel from Kumar Narsingh Rana (the first recognized architect of the country). The land bought by Shakya used to have a movie theatre -“Chalachitra Cinema Hall”, operated by Rana family. During the Hippie era of the 70s, while Maru Hiti and Jhochhen or Freak Street lured hippies, Thamel attracted middle-income tourists. However, the place was quiet and had very little activity. It is widely believed that tourism completely shifted to Thamel between the late 70s and early 80s when a shift in governmental policies discouraged the hippie culture through strict directives in dress code and behavior. Banning the production and sale of marijuana or cannabis by the government of Nepal, led to the decline of Jhocchen. Meanwhile, Thamel started attracting tourists seeking trekking and cultural tourism, steadily growing to become a tourist hub of Nepal.

Clustering of tourist-oriented shops in Thamel exhibits the touristic nature of the locality. The place is synonymous with tourists today. The trendy touristic hub – Thamel owns its origin to Thamel being in a walking distance from Kathmandu Durbar Square and having favorable space for expansion.

3. Place Character and Plans for Pedestrianization

Pedestrianization of Kathmandu Historic Core by KSUPT 2012

Although being a relatively new extension of the old town, the area exhibits the urban fabric of old settlement with narrow alleys and chowks which opens to an average main street that is lined with continuous [previously 3-4 storied] row houses. The main streets are wide in contrast to the streets of the old Kathmandu town. Walking has always been preferred mode of movement in and around Thamel. The street width and series of tourist-oriented shops along the street complimented this.

However, as private vehicles numbers grew in Kathmandu, Thamel has to deal with the problems of congestion, safety, noise and air pollution. It was especially disturbing to a tourist in Thamel, whose main activity in the streets of Thamel is stroll around the shops.

After 2010, several initiatives and plans were made to regulate the entry of private motor vehicles in Thamel. Research by CANN/CEN in 2012 and multi-stake perception study by RECPHEC/NEAT in 2013 reported public and tourist support for full or partial pedestrianization of Thamel. The research carried out by CAAN concluded that pedestrianization of Thamel would yield a wide array of benefits from increased economic and tourism activity, improvement in air quality, to development of sustainable mobility culture, eventually creating a more livable city. [2- CANN/CEN, 2013]

A first formal plan for Pedestrianization of Kathmandu Core City, including Thamel, was proposed by the Kathmandu Sustainable Urban Transport after their study in 2010-14. This plan includes a proposal for 7.8 km pedestrian-only, vehicle-free corridor from Thamel, through Asan and Indra Chowk to Durbar Square and surrounding areas.

As per KSUTP plans, additional bike and taxi parking is proposed on Tridevi Marg road alongside the existing Employees Provident Fund building, while larger private parking facility for Thamel area is proposed on Social Welfare Compound. Thamel Chowk is proposed as a Transport interchange point [drop off]. This KSUTP proposed pedestrian route shall connect the main centres of tourism, commercial activity and many important buildings and sites of cultural and historical interest. 

4. Pedestrianisation of Thamel

Existing Traffic plan of Thamel

The planned implementation of KSUTP by ADB was expected to start from 2014 but was cut short due to Gorkha Earthquake. One specific organization RECPHEC had been advocating for vehicle-free street since 2007 and periodically carrying out campaign such as “Ktm Walks” from 2014. After much setbacks with collective efforts of Metropolitan Traffic Police Division [then headed by Mr Sarvendra Khanal], Thamel Tourism Development Council, local activists, tourism entrepreneurs and other supporting organizations, Thamel was declared vehicle free from 22nd October 2017.

Under this plan, three streets of Thamel (JP School road, Chaksibari Marg and Paryatan Marg were made vehicle free. The plan is enforced by Thamel Traffic Branch. The locals and business who lived or owned business at Thamel are issued vehicle pass by Thamel Tourism boards. Even a pass holder has to push the bike within the vehicle free area. As of 2019, any vehicles flouting laws are fined of NRs 500.

All the service vehicles [including Waste collection] and vehicles carrying goods of businesses are allowed only between 10 PM-5 PM [12 PM on Fridays]. The same is also valid for vehicles carrying construction materials or supporting construction. Water tankers, security vehicles, ambulances are, however, allowed at all times. The street along Sanchayakosh Building is assigned for bus drop off, and most of the tourist taxis drop off at Narsingh Chowk. All the road leading to and from Narsing Chowk are one way. Initial provision for private parking facility was expected to be met by parking at Employees Provident Fund and Chhaya Complex.

The vehicle free sign at entry points

5. Outcome and Response

While the pedestrianization of Thamel was lauded by the media and civil society, the initial response from the locals were mixed [3-Pokharel, 2017]. They were concerned about potential increased traffic and parking pressure on the other streets as a plan was being implemented in only three streets. They either wanted the plan to be scrapped or wanted entire Thamel to be vehicle free. The results, however, showed that while this was true for the initial few months, increase in traffic in the adjacent areas like Bhagwan Bahal, Narsingh Chowk, Paknajol were negligible in the long term. Some locals argued that Thamel’s distance from nearest transit points of Jamal, Ratna Park or Gokhupakha is longer [more than 15 minutes of walking distance], which forces them to use private vehicles.

While the reactions of tourist were overwhelmingly positive, tourist checking in and out had to walk with luggage. Nevertheless, as the street conditions became clean, they were more than willing to drag their belongings on the streets. The vehicle-free streets of Thamel truly complemented their shopping and culinary activities.

Tourist Happily dragging their luggage during checkout

While the businesses initially did not fully voice their support for the initiative, they later agreed that the locality was safe, free of congestion, with reduced air and noise pollution, hence, more inviting to the tourist. While lack of space for parking has been an issue from the start, new spaces for parking near Hotel Vaishali, and at Juddhodaya Public (JP) School complex has provided some relief.

Mr Sarvendra Khanal (year), the then DIG of Traffic who supported the initiation of the project shared that result of Thamel encouraged him to extend this initiative to the Pashupati area. [2- CANN/CEN, 2013]. A post-project survey conducted on 9-10th Jan 2018, showed that 97 percent of the respondents had taken the vehicle free environment positively. Eighty-three percent of the respondents reported that their business benefitted from pedestrianization in comparison to 14 percent who reported negative impacts on their business [4- RECPHEC, 2018].

Like in Bandipur, it was difficult to take away a privilege from people once they were used to it. Also, walking distance from the nearest transit point affects the local people’s dependency on private vehicles as put forth by locals. However, this is not applicable for tourists whose preferred mode of movement is taxis or other rented vehicles. The wholesome economic benefits have not yet been investigated. Nevertheless, the general narrative is that as a touristic hub, Thamel benefited from the pedestrianization process. Locals and tourists reported increased satisfaction level owing to the cut down in noise and air pollution and congestion in the streets. 

References 

1. Interview on previous local resident Bhai Kahi Shrestha on 2018
2. Walkability in Kathmandu Valley by Clean Air Network Nepal/Clean Energy Nepal (Published 2013)
3. Article titled 'Vehicle Ban in Thamel draws Mixed Reaction' published on My Republica, My City (Published date: 2017 Oct 17)
4. Article titled 'Urban Health Promotions: Making a livable City' from RECPHEC Annual Report 2017/18
5. Pedestrianization map taken from Kathmandu Sustainable Urban Transportation Project-2012]